Used gear can be a smart way to get into skiing or snowboarding without the full retail price tag. But not everything is safe to buy secondhand. Some items are fine used, some require caution, and some should never be purchased from a previous owner. Knowing the difference can save you money — or save you a trip to the ER.

Safe to Buy Used

Skis and Snowboards

Skis and boards are the safest used purchase. They're durable, they don't degrade dangerously with age, and cosmetic wear doesn't affect performance much. A ski with scratched topsheets and a few base repairs can still ski beautifully for years. The key is knowing what to look for (covered below).

Poles

Poles are poles. As long as they're straight, the baskets are intact, and the grips aren't falling apart, used poles are perfectly fine. Check that adjustable poles still lock securely. This is the easiest used purchase you can make.

Outerwear

Jackets, pants, gloves, and mid-layers are all good used buys. Check zippers, seam tape (peel back the inner lining at a seam to see if the waterproof tape is delaminating), and DWR coating (pour a little water on the fabric — if it soaks in instead of beading up, the DWR is shot, but it can be restored with a wash-in treatment). Gore-Tex and similar membranes last for years even with heavy use.

Buy with Caution

Boots

Used boots are the trickiest category. A boot that was properly fitted to someone else has a liner that's packed out to their foot shape, not yours. The foam in boot liners compresses over time, conforming to the original owner's pressure points, heel pocket, and toe splay. Put your foot in someone else's packed-out boot and you'll feel slop where they had pressure, and tightness where they had room.

That said, used boots can work in a few scenarios:

  • Low-use boots with 10–20 days on them still have life in the liner.
  • Boots with heat-moldable liners can be re-molded to your foot by a boot fitter.
  • Buying just the shell and replacing the liner with a new or aftermarket one is a legitimate strategy for getting a high-end shell at a discount.

Always try used boots on in person. Never buy used boots online unless you know the exact shell model and your mondo size in that shell. Read our boot fitting guide before shopping.

Bindings

Bindings are a safety-critical component. They need to release properly in a fall to prevent knee injuries. Used bindings can be fine, but they come with caveats.

The 10-year rule:Most ski shops follow manufacturer indemnification lists that specify how long a binding model is supported. Once a binding falls off the indemnification list — typically after about 10 years — shops are not supposed to test, adjust, or mount them. This doesn't mean the binding spontaneously fails on year 11, but it does mean the springs, plastics, and release mechanisms may have degraded to the point where reliable release is no longer guaranteed.

If you buy used bindings, bring them to a shop for a release test before you ski on them. A certified technician will put them on a calibrated machine, verify they release at the correct DIN settings, and check for worn or cracked components. This costs around $20–30 and takes a few minutes. It's non-negotiable. See our binding compatibility guide for more on matching bindings to boots.

Never Buy Used

Helmets

Do not buy a used helmet. Period. Helmets are designed to absorb impact energy by crushing the EPS foam liner inside the shell. This crushing can happen in a crash and leave zero visible external damage. The shell looks fine. The foam inside is compromised. The next impact it takes, it won't protect you properly.

You have no way of knowing whether a used helmet has been in a significant impact. The previous owner may not even remember — a hard fall on hardpack can damage the foam without feeling like a major crash. Helmets are a $60–200 purchase. Buy new. Replace after any significant impact or every 3–5 years as materials degrade. For sizing help, read our helmet fit guide.

What to Check on Used Skis

When you're looking at a pair of used skis, flip them over and give the bases a thorough inspection. Here's what matters:

Base Damage

Surface scratches are cosmetic and don't affect performance. Shallow gouges can be filled with P-tex. Deep core shots— gouges that go through the base material and expose the wood or foam core — are a bigger concern. A couple of properly repaired core shots are fine. Multiple unrepaired core shots or damage near the edges suggest the skis have been ridden hard and neglected.

Edge Condition

Run your fingernail along the edges. They should feel sharp and continuous. Look foredge cracks (visible breaks in the metal edge), edge pull (the edge separating from the base at the tip or tail), andheavy rust(surface rust wipes off; deep pitting does not). Edge cracks and pull are deal-breakers — they're structural and can't be repaired economically.

Delamination

Check the sidewalls, tip, and tail for any separation between layers. Press the ski tip and tail gently — you shouldn't hear cracking or see gaps opening between the topsheet and core. Delamination is progressive. If it's started, it will get worse. Walk away.

Mounting Holes

Every time bindings are mounted, holes are drilled into the ski. Most skis can handle 2–3 sets of mounting holes without structural issues. More than that, and the core starts to look like Swiss cheese. Also check that existing holes have been properly filled with epoxy if bindings have been remounted.

Flex

Hold the ski vertically with the tail on the ground and press the tip toward you. It should flex smoothly and spring back. Compare both skis — they should feel identical. If one is noticeably softer than the other, the core has been waterlogged or damaged on that ski.

What to Check on Used Boots

Liner Condition

Pull the liner out. Check for excessive compression (the heel pocket will be visibly packed out — thin and flat where the original owner's heel sat), mold or mildew (smell test), and deteriorating foam. A liner that's shot can be replaced, but factor $80–150 for an aftermarket liner into your cost calculation.

Buckle Function

Open and close every buckle multiple times. They should click and release cleanly. Check micro-adjust ladders — they should ratchet smoothly in both directions. Replacement buckles are available for most models, but finding the right one for an older boot can be difficult.

Sole Wear

The toe and heel of a ski boot sole are the surfaces that engage with the binding. If they're heavily worn, rounded, or chewed up from walking on pavement, the boot may not sit properly in the binding, which affects release function. Some boots have replaceable sole blocks (GripWalk and WTR soles). Older boots with worn alpine soles may need to be retired. Read more about boot-to-binding compatibility in our binding compatibility guide.

Where to Buy Used Gear

Ski Swaps

The best option for most people. Ski swaps are organized events — usually held in the fall before the season — where individuals and shops sell used equipment. You can inspect everything in person, try on boots, and often get advice from volunteers or shop staff on-site. In the Portland area, local ski clubs and organizations run swaps through October and November. Check community bulletin boards and local ski club websites for dates.

Consignment at Shops

Some specialty shops take used gear on consignment. The advantage is that the shop typically inspects the gear before accepting it, weeding out the worst items. Prices are slightly higher than swap or marketplace prices, but you get some curation.

Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist

Larger selection, lower prices, but zero quality control. You're responsible for inspecting everything yourself. Meet in a public place, bring a flashlight for checking bases, and don't feel pressured to buy on the spot. If the seller won't let you inspect the gear thoroughly, walk away.

The Non-Negotiable Rule

If you buy used bindings, get them shop-tested before you ride. No exceptions. A binding release test on a calibrated machine takes minutes and costs very little. It confirms that the binding releases at the correct force to protect your knees. Skipping this step to save $25 is not worth the risk.

When Used Doesn't Make Sense

If you're an intermediate-to-advanced skier who knows exactly what you want, buying new with a warranty and current-season performance is usually worth the premium. Used gear makes the most sense for beginners building a first setup, parents outfitting growing kids, and anyone who wants a second “quiver” ski for specific conditions without paying full price.

Need your used gear inspected, tuned, or set up? See our tuning services and pricing, or bring it in and we'll take a look.

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